i am going to put my battry in the truck. i just wanted to know if there was a kit out for doing that or if some one could tell me how to go about it.
thanks
Derrick
puting battery in trunk
Yeah I want to do that too to get more woring room lol. I think there are kits but I don't know where to find them. Do a google search. I'm going to do it without a kit...seems easier
1998 Neon R/T DOHC: AEM cold air intake, booger racing shifter bushings, B&M short shifter, MSD Ignition blaster coil, 8mm wires, 16 in. Maxxim Rumor rims with Toyo Proxes FZ4, Autometer oil pressure and voltmeter gauges. polygrafite motor mounts
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Diablo0
- Site Admin
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-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T (SRT-4 Engine Swap)
Click Sig Pic for more info
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants to see us happy.
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Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T (SRT-4 Engine Swap)
Click Sig Pic for more info
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants to see us happy.
- Benjamin Franklin
Keep in mind that most drag strips will require you to have a kill switch on the rear of the vehicle when the battery is in the trunk.
1ST GEN PARTS FOR SALE! CLICK HERE!
1986 Corolla GT-S coupe - 1995 Neon SOHC MTX sedan
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH ERIE INSURANCE!!!
1986 Corolla GT-S coupe - 1995 Neon SOHC MTX sedan
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH ERIE INSURANCE!!!
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wildact224
- Local Neon Owner
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 2:49 pm
Found this at http://neons.org/howtos/relocateb.shtml
thought it would useful
I undertook this project last week and actually had a fairly good time doing it, mainly because unlike most of my projects, I completed it without a major crisis.
First off, I am going to describe in detail everything I did so this is going to be a little long. I do not want to have to write this procedure again, so someone PLEASE include it in the How to section of the webpage.
I think you are going to have a problem with the Summit Battery Kit. I say this because it only includes one peice of 20 ft cable, and in my opinion to do it right is going to require two. For anyone contemplating doing this procedure, do not buy a battery kit baecause the majority of stuff you are paying for is the mounting hardware, which is unnecessary because you will be able to reuse the factory battery tray in the trunk.
Anyway, getting back, you will need two peices of cable one to the starter motor and a second to run to the fuse box/starter relay circuit. Now it is conceivable that you could use one piece and split it under the hood to run to both locations, but I would not recommend this unless you are using very heavy cable (1 gauge or greater). So two pieces will need to be run from the trunk to the starter motor and relay. Rinning the wire was the fun part. I began with all of my cable in the trunk. I then pulled up the carpeting in the trunk on one side and slid the wire under it until it reached the back seats. The I went inside the car, pulled up the back seat and pulled down the seat backs.
You are then able to grab the cable pull it under the seat back and into the cabin. Sice the back seat is removed you can see where the c carpetting ends. Next remove the center console. It is attached with screws in the cup holders and arm rest. After it is removed, run the wire under the carpetting in the back to the console area. Then you will run the wire through there so it will be covered by the console when it is put back on. From there you are going to run it under the carpetting again across the driver's side floor and up to the firewall, from which it will enter the engine compartment. Then repeat the process with the second wire (YIPPY!).
The most nerve racking part of the affair is attaching the wire to the starter motor. If you have seen the motor, you know that it's not in the easiest place to reach. I will also warn you that the bolt is metric, so you beter buy a metric socket set if you want to get it off. You will also need a socket extension. Getting at the bolt is a matter of taste. I crawled under the car to gain access to it (thank God I am not lowered yet), but it is conceivable that you could get it from the top. The lazy man's way would be to splice into the factory wire already attached to the motor. Don't DO IT! you are only asking for trouble later. I have huge hands, so if I could get if off I'm sure anyone else can!
Attaching to the Fuse box iis a piece if cake fortunately, because after messing around with the starter you are probably going to be low on patience.
Finally you have the actual moving of the battery. Remove the batter from it's tray and set it on the ground. You gloves if you are scared. Now comes the part where I got creative. I reused the battery tray in the truck because it holds the battery very firmly. However, the batter tray also supports the fuse box and holds the battery temperature sensor. So get a key hole saw from your local hardware store. Saw out the front of the battery tray which hold the sensor and bolts to the chassis. If you do this you no longer need to relocate the sensor. Saves you major amounts of time. The sensor really has no vital function anyway and will do just fine sitting there by himself. You will also want to leave that pipe which runs down beneath the car in place because it will be a good source of cold air for your cone filter. You can now remove the whole battrey tray and disco disconnect the fuse box. Saw off the upper have of the back wall of the battery tray which has the mounts for the fuse box and the hole for mounting to the chassis. Now you can reattach the fuse box in a stable position without a need for the battery tray.
Finally, saw the fin shaped plastic pieces off the bottom of the tray. It will now be able to sit level in the trunk. This was a lot of sawing and you probably have some nice size blisters to show for it, but perserve for you are almost done. Take the tray out to the trunk. I drilled about four holes in it right down through the body of the car. I screwed it down with some flush mount screws, went under the car and wiped some sealant over the tips of the screws to prevent them from rusting and to make sure I got no moisture in the trunk. Next mount the battery back in the tray using the metal flap and screw, which you should not have cut off with the temperature sensor ( sorry I should have mentioned that earlier). Then, cut a small slit in the trunk carpetting to run the cable back up to the battery and you are done.
The first time you start the car it will stall, which is a result of the battery being disconnected, but from there you should have no problems
Again I would recommend not buying the kit, everthing you need to mount the battery is under the hhod right now. I purchased 4 gauge cable from the local car audio place. That is the best place to get it because their cable is designed to flow the maximum amount of power because it is used for amplifiers. I bought Rockford Fosgate Cable by the way, Nice stuff, AMerican made! Remember, you will need two 20 ft lengths. The connector and terminals can be purchased at any automotive store and will not cost you more than five dollars.
If anyone has any other questions drop me a line. I did this two weeks ago and have had a bsolutely no problems with the procedure I just outlined. I have yet to put in a cone filter, I am still trying to come up with a crative solution to that problem. Anyone who has seen my car knows that I am never satisfied with the norm, it's always got to be creative and different. Try to find some way to make you modification unique, it is much more rewarding when you can say an idea was you own rather then just following someone elses lead.
Take Care and Good Luck,
Shane Ball
sball@loyola.edu
Gahanna, Ohio
thought it would useful
I undertook this project last week and actually had a fairly good time doing it, mainly because unlike most of my projects, I completed it without a major crisis.
First off, I am going to describe in detail everything I did so this is going to be a little long. I do not want to have to write this procedure again, so someone PLEASE include it in the How to section of the webpage.
I think you are going to have a problem with the Summit Battery Kit. I say this because it only includes one peice of 20 ft cable, and in my opinion to do it right is going to require two. For anyone contemplating doing this procedure, do not buy a battery kit baecause the majority of stuff you are paying for is the mounting hardware, which is unnecessary because you will be able to reuse the factory battery tray in the trunk.
Anyway, getting back, you will need two peices of cable one to the starter motor and a second to run to the fuse box/starter relay circuit. Now it is conceivable that you could use one piece and split it under the hood to run to both locations, but I would not recommend this unless you are using very heavy cable (1 gauge or greater). So two pieces will need to be run from the trunk to the starter motor and relay. Rinning the wire was the fun part. I began with all of my cable in the trunk. I then pulled up the carpeting in the trunk on one side and slid the wire under it until it reached the back seats. The I went inside the car, pulled up the back seat and pulled down the seat backs.
You are then able to grab the cable pull it under the seat back and into the cabin. Sice the back seat is removed you can see where the c carpetting ends. Next remove the center console. It is attached with screws in the cup holders and arm rest. After it is removed, run the wire under the carpetting in the back to the console area. Then you will run the wire through there so it will be covered by the console when it is put back on. From there you are going to run it under the carpetting again across the driver's side floor and up to the firewall, from which it will enter the engine compartment. Then repeat the process with the second wire (YIPPY!).
The most nerve racking part of the affair is attaching the wire to the starter motor. If you have seen the motor, you know that it's not in the easiest place to reach. I will also warn you that the bolt is metric, so you beter buy a metric socket set if you want to get it off. You will also need a socket extension. Getting at the bolt is a matter of taste. I crawled under the car to gain access to it (thank God I am not lowered yet), but it is conceivable that you could get it from the top. The lazy man's way would be to splice into the factory wire already attached to the motor. Don't DO IT! you are only asking for trouble later. I have huge hands, so if I could get if off I'm sure anyone else can!
Attaching to the Fuse box iis a piece if cake fortunately, because after messing around with the starter you are probably going to be low on patience.
Finally you have the actual moving of the battery. Remove the batter from it's tray and set it on the ground. You gloves if you are scared. Now comes the part where I got creative. I reused the battery tray in the truck because it holds the battery very firmly. However, the batter tray also supports the fuse box and holds the battery temperature sensor. So get a key hole saw from your local hardware store. Saw out the front of the battery tray which hold the sensor and bolts to the chassis. If you do this you no longer need to relocate the sensor. Saves you major amounts of time. The sensor really has no vital function anyway and will do just fine sitting there by himself. You will also want to leave that pipe which runs down beneath the car in place because it will be a good source of cold air for your cone filter. You can now remove the whole battrey tray and disco disconnect the fuse box. Saw off the upper have of the back wall of the battery tray which has the mounts for the fuse box and the hole for mounting to the chassis. Now you can reattach the fuse box in a stable position without a need for the battery tray.
Finally, saw the fin shaped plastic pieces off the bottom of the tray. It will now be able to sit level in the trunk. This was a lot of sawing and you probably have some nice size blisters to show for it, but perserve for you are almost done. Take the tray out to the trunk. I drilled about four holes in it right down through the body of the car. I screwed it down with some flush mount screws, went under the car and wiped some sealant over the tips of the screws to prevent them from rusting and to make sure I got no moisture in the trunk. Next mount the battery back in the tray using the metal flap and screw, which you should not have cut off with the temperature sensor ( sorry I should have mentioned that earlier). Then, cut a small slit in the trunk carpetting to run the cable back up to the battery and you are done.
The first time you start the car it will stall, which is a result of the battery being disconnected, but from there you should have no problems
Again I would recommend not buying the kit, everthing you need to mount the battery is under the hhod right now. I purchased 4 gauge cable from the local car audio place. That is the best place to get it because their cable is designed to flow the maximum amount of power because it is used for amplifiers. I bought Rockford Fosgate Cable by the way, Nice stuff, AMerican made! Remember, you will need two 20 ft lengths. The connector and terminals can be purchased at any automotive store and will not cost you more than five dollars.
If anyone has any other questions drop me a line. I did this two weeks ago and have had a bsolutely no problems with the procedure I just outlined. I have yet to put in a cone filter, I am still trying to come up with a crative solution to that problem. Anyone who has seen my car knows that I am never satisfied with the norm, it's always got to be creative and different. Try to find some way to make you modification unique, it is much more rewarding when you can say an idea was you own rather then just following someone elses lead.
Take Care and Good Luck,
Shane Ball
sball@loyola.edu
Gahanna, Ohio
1996 baseline dodge neon (400 bucks)
i am getting in deep here
i am getting in deep here