clutch help!!!

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clutch help!!!

Post by dodge96mopar » Wed Jun 28, 2006 7:01 pm

i was pulling into my drive way today and all of a sudden i heard a popping sound then my clutch pedal fell to the floor. now my clutc has no pressure to it. can some one help me out. i drive a 96 sohc. can some one tell me what kind of clutch i have, meaning cable, hydrolic and where do you add hydrolic fluid add if it is hydrolic?

please help
2004 SRT4- short throw,k&n intake,3in exhaust- stage1
SOLD- 96 dodge neon- Gomango paint,wingwest bodykit,carbonfiber hood and trunk,carbon fiber taillights,17in icon wheels,projection headlights,8000k h.i.d's,indashtv/dvd player,cai, exhaust

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Post by Vinny » Wed Jun 28, 2006 7:50 pm

It's a cable operated clutch, beyond that I don't know much since I haven't had to change one or anything myself.

1986 Corolla GT-S coupe - 1995 Neon SOHC MTX sedan


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robert 'bob' paulson
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Post by robert 'bob' paulson » Wed Jun 28, 2006 9:52 pm

i got a few minutes. This is right out of my Haynes.

Clutch cable - removal and installation
1. Raise the hood and place a blanket over the left (driver's) fender to protect it.
2. Carefully pull the Power Distribution Center up and out of its holding bracket and move it out of the way.
3. Remove the clutch cable inspection cover from the bellhousing
4. Pull back on the clutch cable housing and disengage it from the groove in the bellhousing, then disconnect it from the release lever
5. At the clutch pedal, slightly depress the clutch pedal to allow access to the clutch cable. Remove the clip securing the up stop/space to the clutch pedal pivot pin. Wedge a narrow flat-blade screwdriver between the clutch pedal pivot pin and the up stop/space, then pull the up stop/spacer from the clutch cable end.
6. Caution: Do not pull on the clutch cable while removing it from the dash panel as the cable self-adjuster may be damaged. Within the engine compartment, hold onto the grommet and, using a slight twisting motion, carefully remove the clutch cable grommet free from the firewall and clutch bracket. If necessary, carefully use a screwdriver to free the grommet from the firewall opening. Remove the clutch cable assembly.

7. Within the engine compartment, using a slight twisting motion, insert the self-adjusting end of the clutch cable through the grommet in the firewall and the clutch bracket
8. In the passenger compartment, seat the cylindrical part of the grommet into the firewall opening and clutch bracket. Make sure the self-adjuster is firmly seated against the clutch bracket to ensure the adjuster will function properly.
9. Connect the clutch cable end onto the up stop/spacer and install the space onto the clutch pedal pivot pin, Install the clip and make sure it properly seated.
10. Within the engine compartment, using slighter pressure, pull the clutch cable end to draw the cable taut, Push the cable housing towards the firewall with less that 25-lbs of pressure. the cable housing should move about 1 inch - this indicates proper adjustment. If it does not adjust, determine if the mechanism is properly seated on the bracket.
11. Guide the cable through the slot on the bellhousing and connect it to the release leaver seating the cupped washer securely in the release lever tangs.
12. Pull back on the clutch cable housing and inset it into the bellhousing.
13. Install the clutch cable inspection cover onto the bellhousing.

Sorry, no pics, my scanner is busted.

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Post by LH95sohc » Mon Jul 03, 2006 3:12 pm

Sounds to me like it could be a throwout bearing or your pressure plate. I had the same problem happen to me, and it ended up being a whole buncha shit that was wrong.

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